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Методические указания по выполнению семестровой контрольной работы с комплектом заданий по английскому языку студентов дистанционной формы обучения Уфа 2007

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  • Some cotton fibres having no natural twist are subjected tothe process of mercerisation and the fabrics to be obtained iscalled mercerised cotton. Cotton has a high tensile strength. Itconsists of 90 % cellulose and it burns very quickly. The cottonfibres conduct heat much more easily than animal fibres do andthey have a low electric conductivity. That ie why cotton iswound around some electric wires.
  • Cotton has a natural creamy-white colour. It absorbs waterslowly and dries slowly. No special care is needed in launderingcotton. Cotton fibres are not elastic. Batiste, chintz, damask,marquisette, muslin, organdy, poplin, rep and others are made of cotton.

    5. Linen, obtained from the flax plant, is, perhaps, the oldest of all the woven materials used for clothing, and it is still best for strength. Linen absorbs water readily and dries more quickly than any other fibre. Linen feels smooth, cool and has a beautiful natural lustre. It is free from lint and doesn't stain easily. Bacteria do not live readily on it. These hygienic qualities make linen more adaptable for surgical use. It is a good conductor of heat because air penetrates it readily, Linen3 crush and wrinkle very easily. Linen fabrics may be made into table linens, laces, sheeting, toweling, clothing, sewing threads, shoe threads, etc. Because of its strength, good quality linen 16 a very durable fibre and will wear long. It is refreshed by washing, and ironing can be done at a somewhat higher temperature than cotton.

    6. Wool was used for clothing thousands of years ago. If we lookaround, we shall see how many people wear wool in one form oranother- dresses, coats, overcoats, cardigans, and many otherarticles. Everybody knows wool to be used in warm and tropicalcountries as well as in cold ones, because it has a wonderfulpower of absorbing moisture and keeping the skin dry. Wool isthe most elastic fibre and it resists wrinkles and сrеases. It is thermostatic and its fibres act as a natural regulator of body temperature. This thermostatic action protects against heat as well as against cold. Wool fabrics hold their shape; drape gracefully, do not wrinkle easily, end easy to care for. Wool is divided into two main classes which are determined by the length of the fibres. These classes are worsted and woolens.
    1. Worsted fabrics have a special lustre and clearent surfacewhich gives them a distinctly smart appearance. Only longest woolfibres are to be used. The worsteds cost more than the woolens.Being elastic worsted holds its shape perfectly well. Woolens aresofter than worsteds. Woolens are made of various kinds of woolof different lengths. Woolens don't hold their shape as well worsteds because of the softness of the cloth.
    2. Silk is a natural fibre, it is long, smooth and strong. Theelasticity of silk helps to keep the fabrics from wrinkling andmakes the materials drape well. It is a delight to wear silk because of its lightness and smooth surface. Silk is the most durable and the strongest textile known. It is excellent for warmth.The beautiful appearance of silk fabrics, their lustre and theiraffinity for dyes, all help to make them suitable for people with fine tastes. Silk may be laundered or dry-cleaned in the same was аs other fabrics are.

    9. The uses of silk are as varied as its advantages, as may be seen by a glance over the following list: women's dresses, blouses, shirts, hats, ribbons, hosiery, bathing suits, typewriter ribbons, etc.

    Answer the following questions:
    1. What are four well-known natural fibres?
    2. What are some of the characteristics and properties of cotton?
    3. .What kinds of fabrics can be made of cotton?
    4. What are main characteristics and properties of linen?
    5. Why la linen adaptable for surgical use?
    6. What can we make of linen?
    7. What are some of the characteristics and properties of wool?
    8. What is the difference between worsteds and woolens?
    9. What properties of silk do you know?10. What kinds of apparel are made of silk?


    Вариант II

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    Man-Made Fibres

    1. In the mid-twentieth century man had found out how to makea fabric out of coal, air and water.
    2. Nylon is one of the synthetics. Nylon is a fibre in which thevery molecules composing it are man-made. It is a true synthetic.Nylon is composed of four elements: carbon, hydrogen, nitrogenand oxygen. Nylon is smooth, strong, elastic and light in weight.It absorbs very little moisture and dries quickly. Nylon is knownto be used for hosiery, undergarments and some dresses. Fabricsmade of nylon do not need to be pressed so often. Nylon usagegoes far beyond that of apparel; it goes into curtains fabrics,lace and taffetas, it is used for hosiery, underwear, knitted fabrics, tire cords, tents, in short, nylon is used everywhere.
    3. Because silk wa3 desirable but costly, many attempts were madeto create it artificially. The most popular way of manufacturingrayon is by the viscose process. Rayon is known to be a man-madefibre too. It Is composed of wool pulp which is a form of cellulose converted into a thread formation by means of chemical and mechanical processes.

    4. The smooth slippery surface of rayon is resistant to friction.Other fabrics do not stick to rayon. This makes it particularlydesirable for underwear. Rayon is more resistant to perspirationthan other fibres. It absorbs pespiration, keeping the skin dryand comfortable. Rayon does not provide a favourable medium forthe growth of bacteria. Rayons are not so strong as silks. It hasless elasticity than silk and it creases more easily. In order toovercome this defect resins axe added. Rayon is used to supplementthe defects of the materials such as cotton, linen, wool and givethem a new style significance, as for example when it is combinedwith linen to make it less crushable. Rayon turns up in hosierysport and dress fabrics, tablecloths, linings, etc.

    5. Each man-made fibre has certain characteristics which make itmost appropriate for certain purposes. For example, only in recent,years we have had stretch yarns. Products knitted from nylon уаrnswhich have been texturised to impart a permanent twist or crimp

    do not need to have so many sizes. Two or three are enough to fit everybody because of their stretch. Such yarns are used to make socks, bathing suits and all kinds of underwear, gloves, surgical stockings and many other garments.

    6. Wash-and-wear and easy-eare fabrics and garments are widely inuse now. Wash-and-wear garments are those that will satisfactorily retain their original neat appearance after repeated wearand laundering with little if any touch-up ironing. This meansthat the garment will retain any pressed-in creases or pleats and be essentially free from undesirable wrinkles both during wear and after laundering.

    7. Fabrics printed or those woven or knitted in patterns and colours appear to be more satisfactory than plain colours or whitebecause creases and fine wrinkles are less apparent. Light coloursare more successful than dark colours for the same reasons. Thedesign of the garment also has considerable influence oh wrinkle-free appearance. Because the fabrics must be treated before thegarments are cut and sewn, for wash-and-wear apparel, usuallypatterns with few seams are more successful than those with manyseams.

    Answer the following questions:


    I. When did synthetics come to life?
    1. What is nylon? What are the properties of nylons?
    2. Where is nylon used?
    3. What is rayon? What properties of rayon do you know?
    4. What does rayon turn up in?
    5. Why is rayon used to supplement the defects of some materials?
    6. What do you know about stretch yarns?
    7. What are wash-and-wear and еаsу-саге fabrics?
    8. What colours of fabrics printed appear to be more satisfactory?Why is it so?

    10. What man-made fibres do you know?

    Вариант III

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    Design analysis of the dress
    1. "Dress" is an important art, and it always has been. Everyarticle of clothing is the personal art expression of a peoplewho created it. There are basic standards by which we judge theart quality of clothing, whether it was created two hundred yearsago or today.
    2. Generally speaking, there are only three types of clothing:I. The anatomic type Includes what are known as tailor-made garments. They originated in a cold climate. The type of costumewould consist of a close-fitting jacket or shirt and tight trousers or shirt. 2. The draped type of clothing originated in thoseregions where weaving was first invented. This type is associatedwith a mild climate. Long lengths of material are arranged overthe body to hang in loose folds. The material is never cut andseldom sewn. The Greek and Roman costumes are known, o be excellent examples of draped clothing. 3. The composite type, аз nameimplies, is clothing in which both draping and tailoring areused. Such are the garments of today. We are adapting ourselvesto a man-made climate by wearing fewer end lighter clothes in ourwell-heated houses, public buildings and transport.
    3. Any garment must be judged in two ways: it should have finedesign qualities, and, it should be nicely related to the figure.As a rule simple styles cut on good basic lines, look well onmost figures. The elements of any design are: lines, shapes, textures, colours. It goes without saying that all these elementsshould be taken into consideration. A design has unity when all these elements seem to be long together. Each element should express a similar idea of giving the design a well-related quality-feeling of "oneness"*.
    1. The principle of proportion concerns the relationship thatexists between shapes, sizes, and amounts in a design. First, thedesign of every garment should be related to the structure andproportions of the body; second, every article in the costumeshould be in scale* with the figure (no huge prints for a tinygirl, for example). Third, a design is more pleasing when unequalamounts of colour are used.
    2. The principle of balance controls the placement of lines andshapes and the distribution of colours in design. The principle ofRhythm controls the "eye movement"* in a design. When lines, shapes,textures and colours are well organized they help one to achieveharmony among the elements of a design.
    3. The appearance of the figure may be influenced by: I) the structural lines of the dress (i.e. the position of the armhole, theposition and direction of the seams), 2) the shape of the neckline, 3) the amount of the fullness in dress, 4) the position ofthe decorations, 5) the length of the dress, 6) the width and position of the belt.
    4. Structural lines need to be considered much in planning a dress.In determining the right position for the armhole, the width ofthe shoulders must be considered. As it is known any vertical linehas a tendency of adding height because it carries the eye up anddown the figure. Obligue lines will seem to take away some widthand add a little height. The neckline is known to change the shapeof the face.

    8. A dress may be spoiled by the character or quantity of its decoration. The decoration should harmonize in colour and texturewith the material. The length of the dress is considered to havea definite effect on the figure. A long clinging dress appears toadd height. In determining the length of your dress you need to be guided both by the fashion and by the peculiarities of your figure. The design of the dress is greatly influenced by the kind of fabric. Colour also has a great effect in dress' designing. You may have a dress which is pleasing in design, but if the colour combination is not attractive, the effect of design may be lost.

    9. Taking into consideration all these elements one can make afine creation.

    oneness - единство

    should be in scale - должна соответствовать

    eye-movement - плавное движение глаз

    Answer the following questions:

    1.What are three types pf clothing? What do you know about them?.

    2. How must we judge any garment?
    1. What are the elements of any design?
    2. How does the principle of proportion influence a design?
    3. What other principles help to achieve harmony among theelements of a design?
    4. That way may the appearance of the figure be influenced by?
    5. What are the main principles of structural, vertical, obliquelines?
    6. How should the decoration harmonize with the material? Why?
    7. .Why is the length of the dress considered to have definiteeffect on the figure?

    10. Why does colour have a great effect in dress' designing?

    Вариант IV

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    Cutting

    1. One should keep in mind that before cutting all wool fabrics should be shrunk. We know that shrinkage may be done by hand by means of a shrinkage machine. The shrinkage machine is capable to shrink wool fabrics to such a degree that they would not shrink on subsequent treatment. The shrinkage machine is a special conveyor consisting of heating and steaming chambers; the conveyor itself being inclined horizontally, this slope gives the maximum shrinkage in length during the treatment by steam and vibration.

    2. All garments begin in a design room. Here designers sketch out their ideas for a new model using high-fashion magazines, various showings to help them to keep in current mode. Then cutting itself La being done. Cutting requires considerable skill because the fit Of the garment depends to a great extent upon the accuracy of the cutter

    3.Jutting has become more complicated by the introduction of new different characteristics. Cutting methods vary considerably. The cutting operations can be done by single operators or by a team of operators. There are three main operations: sprеаding, marking and cutting.

    4-. The term "spreading" refers to the laying out and piling of piece goods on the cutting tables. The spreading operation varies with the method used: cutting on the open and in the fold, spreading by hand or machine; laying fabrics face to face or face to beck and spreading the fabrics all in the загсе direction. Good spreading results in a lay in which each ply lies perfectly flat end without tension. Today electric and hand operated cloth spreading machines are known to be widely used for ell natural and synthetic materials.
    1. Marking is the transfer of patterns to a piece of fabric or paper. Various methods are used in the marking operations. Most patterns are cut in pairs (right and left) from the two plies placedface to face. Then a fine marking by chalk should be done. A number of machines have been introduced for marking the position ofdarts, pockets, etc. An electrically - operated cloth drill makesholes through all the thickness of the lay.
    2. Garments for mass production are cut out by a machine that takena roll of cloth and spreads it on a cutting table in as many, layers as are required. There are different cutting machines used inapparel manufacturing, for example, the rotary knife, the straightknife, the band knife and circular knife machines. Straight knifecutting machines are the most frequently used, they are availablewith two speeds, regular end half speed.
    3. A high speed circular knife is used for cutting the cloth, theknife being traversed alternately from right to left and then fromleft to right at the next cut. Production is increased proportionally if more then one layer of fabric is fed. Delivery of the cutpieces is controlled by a flap which is adjustable to govern thetiming and speed of removal.
    4. An electronic spreader and electronic cutter are known to be inuse in the sewing industry. These unite make cutting and spreadingcompletely automatic. The electronic cloth cutter is controlled bythree cells, for left, right and horizontal control. It travelsabove the cutting table and automatically cuts out a pattern andshuts itself off. The machine has variable speeds and can handleall straight-knife operations.


    Answer the following questions:

    1. How may shrinkage be done?

    2. How does garment cutting begin?

    3. Why does cutting require considerable skills?

    4. What are three main cutting operations?

    5. What methods are used during the spreading operation?

    6. W hat is marking?

    7. What way is marking done?

    8. How are garments for mass production cut out?

    9. What cutting machines are used in apparel manufacturing?

    10. How does electronic cutter work?

    Вариант V

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    Shawls*
    1. The kerchief was a traditional article in the Russian woman's costume. Peasant wеаvеrs decorated the kerchiefs with handwork embroidery, multicoloured stripes or a printed pattern. In the 19 th century Russian manufacturers of kerchiefs and shawl3 introduced worsted weaving yarn. The fashion for the Cashmere shawls as an article of co3tume was established in Europe in the late 18 th century and Cashmere - type shawls began to be manufactured in Russia from the early years of the 19 th century. ?. Decoration of shawls consisted of floral motifs (called buta)- first a plant spray with roots; later this motif was conventionalized in the so-called "cone", which itself became increasingly rigid and formalized in the 19 th century until it wan eventually transformed into a purely formal scroll-line element in an overall pattern which had lost any suggestion of its floral origin. Naturalistic flowers began to make their appearance in the late 18 th century and were also destined to enjoy a long success, up to the present day. Russian shawl-manufacturers produced shawls with the usuа1 patterns of large Indian - style flowers or more natural blooms in fairy tight compositions. The colour scheme of a single shawl could consist of as many as sixty colour graduations.

    3.The method of weaving was akin to tapestry weaving: the pattern was formed from the weft alone and the threads forming the design were not carried across the whole lengh of the loom but were woven into the wool threads only sо far as each colour was required by the pattern. The work was highly skilled and a single shawl took as much as a year and a half to complete on one loom. As skein of the finest yarn weighing 13 grams contained a thread 4,500 metres long.

    4. During the 19 th century the practice grew up of dividing the patterned portions of a single shawl (centre-piece, end-borders and edges) among a number of looms and then joining them by needlework. After it is woven woollen cloth must be "finished" - fulled, in order to felt and thicken it, then washed, beaten, brushed to raise the fibre ends, cut into pieces of the needed size, and finally cropped to an even surface. Gradually printed woollen shawls replaced the more costly woven ones. The eleborate woven patterns were modified and became somewhat simpler when reproduced in printing, but they preserved the same clear-cut out lines and every minute detail.

    5. Among the best products in Russia were those of the Moscow factories owned by Smirnov and Givartovsky as well as of the firm of labzin in Pavlovsky Posad near Moscow. In Pavlovaky Posad Caehmeretype shawls began to be made from 1812 and established it аs the chief centre of Russian shawl-making up to the present day. The production of its designers was marked off by a harmonious composition end rich colour scheme. The buta motif appeared in various combinations of interlacing, alternating and radiating scroll-like elements which formed e repeating tapestry-like pattern filling the greeter part of the main field. An indecorated, empty area in the very middle of the shawl, cross- or star-shaped, weя the centre of the composition. The Pavlovsky-Fosad shawls were always in constant demand.

    6. At the 1937 Paris 7/orld Pair more than 600 items from Pavlovaky Posad-shawls, coverlets, table cloths, curtains and panels - were displayed. The collection was awarded the Grand Prix of the exhibition. The visitors of the 1939 .World Pair in New Year were greatly attracted by Favlovsky Posad shawls with bright luminous roses and emerald-green foliage, showing rhythmic polychrome effects and delicately outlined patterns.

    7. Remaining true to the conventions of their art, the masters of Pavlovsky Posad try to keep abreast with the times. All of them, younger and older, are always In search of new ways and means of artistic expression, new ideas and schemes of composition.


    Answer the following questions:
    1. What was a traditional article in the Russian woman's costume?
    2. When was the fashion for the Cashmere shawls established andwhen did they appear in Russia?
    3. What did decoration of shawls consist of?
    4. .What was the method of weaving a shawl?
    5. How much time did it take to complete one shawl?
    6. Whet method of weaving shawls was used during the 19 thcentury?
    7. What were end are the best factories of producing shawls inRussia?

    3. What was the buta motif of Pavlovsky Posad shawls?

    9. When did Pavlovsky Poaad get the prizes?

    10. Why were the visitors of exhibitions attracted by PavlovskyPosad shawls?